Brunch at the Palace Hotel (and Japanese Treats)

My mother remarked that in New York City, some of the finest meals can be enjoyed at hotel restaurants. So, we decided to brunch at Istana in the Palace Hotel. (Le Cirque 2000 can also be found at this location.)

Although not cheap, the prix fixe breakfast includes an all-you-can-eat dessert bar. I greatly enjoyed my plate of smoked salmon, decorated with a "blossom" of brioche toast points. The "pistil" of the flower was a dollop of red pepper crème fraîche topped with a small portion of osetra caviar. Also satisfying was a tomato scallion omelette served with a watercress salad and fried oysters. The star of the show, however, was the dessert buffet. All desserts are baked on the premises; today the array of sweets included a butterscotch pudding, two types of chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, fig tart, lemon-lime meringue pie, black bottom crème brûlée, fruits in Grand Marnier with whipped cream, and petits fours. Many desserts were adorned with summer fruits; strawberries, raspberries and blueberries.

I decided that I needed a little exercise after this indulgence, so I strolled over to Minamoto Kitchoan, the excellent Japanese bakery. (A few days ago, I was surprised to see a branch of this delightful shop on Piccadilly in London.) Many sweets are seasonal; right now, I can recommend the imo kintsuba, sweet potato fudge. There is also a hakuto jelly, which is like the freshest essence of a summer peach. I rounded out my purchase with a couple tsuya, pancakes filled with sweet red bean paste. In London's Kitchoan, you can sit down and enjoy afternoon green tea with your treat; I hope that the New York store eventually offers a table for this activity, although I am not optimistic (we just don't know how to relax in this town).

I was so full after all of this that I had no room left to sample some acarajé (bean fritters) or cachaça (Brazilian sugar cane liquor) at the 18th Annual Brazilian Day Festival on 6th Avenue. I guess I'll have to wait until next year.

Palace Hotel: 455 Madison Ave. (800) NY-PALACE. Minamoto Kitchoan: 608 Fifth Ave. (212) 489-3747.